My Road Trip to Tranquebar

I have been in awe of women drivers who are seen driving high-end cars for television shows on motoring India’s highways to reach exotic destinations, probably even a little envious of their driving skill sets.  I am not sure if I can accomplish what Gul Panag and Mandira Bedi have achieved by conquering Indian roads and Himalayan icy roads. Yet, I needed to explore this aspect of traveling for my own self, wondering if I could travel  300 kms in Southern India from my hometown, Chennai with no passengers to keep you company or stand-in drivers.  Then one day, I just took to the wheels and set off in my Honda Brio to Tarangambady or Tranquebar, as it was known earlier. I chose this destination because it seemed ideal for a long-distance journey and believed I could manage the distance non-stop. 

I set out about 4.30 in the morning from Besant Nagar. With exception of a stop for breakfast around 6.30.A.M, I drove straight through into the journey until I reached Tranquebar.  The drive on the East Coast Road till Puducherry was a breeze. The roads in Cuddalore were not as smooth as the four-lane drive on ECR. After Chidamabaram, the temple town, it was Karuvi, a small town that actually leads you to the Heritage town of Tarangambady. The journey took me through tiny villages, narrow roads with blind curves, as I maneuvered the distance with a lot of trepidation, yet with a certain amount of confidence that emanates from long years of driving through city roads.  During the journey, I passed through Thenpennai and Uppanar rivers and glad to see that they were not dry.  The residents along the journey were helpful with directions as I passed through the arch that leads to Poompuhar town, reaching the City Gate of Tarangambady. It is a typical architectural marvel that one witnesses in some of the heritage towns across Europe and it was to have been constructed in the year 1792. It was a little disheartening to note that the walls of the city gate were vandalized with posters that diminished its heritage value. 

Driving towards the beach, I reached ‘The Bungalow on the Beach, a property facing the Dansborg Fort or the Danish Fort that was built in 1620 AD. Originally, known as the Collector’s Bungalow, it has eight guest rooms, each named after ships that arrived at the port of Tranquebar. A beautiful building that stands majestically on the shores of the Coromandel coast. The hotel itself is comfortable and the ambience is perfect for relaxation with the sound of waves and strong sea breeze enrapturing you into an idyllic and peaceful reverie.  The view from the bungalow is spectacular and I decided to picture the sunrise from my room. As a frequent traveler to some of European destinations, I always felt a swelling sense of pride in clicking pictures of destinations in India that exhibited cultural influences of Europe on our heritage. A similar feeling, I experienced when I visited the Taj Mahal and Forts of Jaipur that had the mark of Mughal influence on our Architecture. 

 Tarangambady is where one finds India’s first printing press set up in the year 1706 by two Protestant Missionaries from Denmark. I did not take a picture of the press, because the entrance of the building was in such disarray and ill-maintained.  The Zion Church was built in the year 1701 AD. The New Jerusalem Church was built in the year 1718. A mosque that was built by the Arabian traders about 300 years ago also houses a Dargah and a tank, presumably used for ablution.  The street names were Goldsmith Street, Admiral Street, The King Street and the Queen Street as typically English as it can be.  The town had some well-preserved heritage houses and some old houses that have become derelict for want of funds towards upkeep, restoration and reuse. Intach has an office in Tarangambady that stands out as an exemplary piece of restored property. I am not sure why the organisation has not taken up the restoration of some of the heritage structures like the Printing press and other property. The Bungalow offers a beautiful view of the ancient Masillamani Nathar Temple against the backdrop of the ocean, a temple that was built by the Pandya King ‘Maravaram Kulasekara Pandyan in the year 1305 A.D. On finding that the temple dedicated to Saturn in the town of Thirunallar was only 15 kms from the City Gate, and with the fact that I had actually arrived there on a Saturday, I wasted no time in traveling the distance to pray at the Saturn temple and also got a glimpse of the chariots that were being prepared for a festival on the next day.

As with most heritage towns in India, the visible neglect and lack of pride in our cultural and natural heritage leaves visitors like me from the city very disappointed and disillusioned. The sandy shores surrounding the Danish Fort is littered with garbage and discarded plastic bottles, not just because the trash bins are broken but also because our people have very limited awareness on the need for cleanliness in touristy spots. Sunday morning, the quietness of the place was, of course disturbed by   loudspeakers spewing religious music from nearby temples and church  for more than an hour, and my first thought was about the European couple in the next room. Having to wake up to voices over loudspeakers from the church and the temple, must be a rude shock to foreign tourists who come from places where the luxury of peace and quiet is taken for granted. I am not sure how as to how we can increase levels of  awareness among  local tourists about our trading connections to the Danes, the Portuguese and the British, whose rich cultural impact is ingrained in our history and the need to preserve the heritage sites dedicated to such confluence.

The town itself is an example of how climate and other factors influence the lifestyle and livelihood of local residents. The region has not witnessed monsoonal rains in the last two years and those who rely on fishing for income are facing hardship due to local weather conditions.  A woman who collects seashells for limestone paste struck a conversation with me narrating her plight and that of her sister, who were both widows and had to make both ends meet by collecting sea shells and discarded plastic. The state of helplessness these women endure in the face of utter poverty moved me beyond words. All that I could do was buy some of her seashells, pray for rains and better times for the region. There is hope though, if private entities take up the cause of making this town a tourist haven, working in tandem with the Archaeological Department to take up restoration projects. A good civic sense among local tourists can certainly enrich the lives of its residents if tourism in the town is encouraged by local governments and private entities.